The Friday before we left, I’d faxed a request to the Vatican for a free ticket to attend mass. Time was short, so I requested that it be delivered to the B&B where we were staying. I wasn’t even sure the international call/fax had gone through so imagine my surprise when Francesco, the hotel owner, emailed to say that the envelope had arrived. Surprise #1. The Italian government is notoriously shady and inefficient. The office of the Vatican obviously is not. I was invited to attend a mass for the Elderly and Grandparents. How appropriate, I thought. I booked a taxi to take me to St. Peter’s on Sunday morning and arrived (at the wrong Bronze Doors, as it turned out) at 8:30. The…

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