Inside the Vatican Museum, one of the first things that struck me was that the chattering crowds pushed through corridor after corridor of magnificent art and antiquities like sheep, not sparing a glance at the decorated marble floors or the extensive carvings in the stairwells. More to the point they never looked up. I spent a lot of time with my neck cricked back, looking upwards as I walked slowly from gallery to gallery. From a distance, the muscularity and detail in the frescoes and paintings were all the more compelling. I’d rented an audio guide, which wasn’t all that helpful because there were no ear buds and the device couldn’t be clipped to my lapel – I had to hold it up to…

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