The history of Ireland is inspiring and mournful. We spent a day in Cobh/Cove (formerly Queenstown – renamed after Independence), the site from which many of the three million Irish departed between 1829 and 1970 and the last port of call for the Titanic and the Lusitania, both ill-fated voyages. The exhibit was interactive and our tickets included the name of one of the passengers on sailing ships that plied the Atlantic. Our task was to find their personal story among the artifacts. What a contrast between conditions in steerage (cramped, damp and dark) and the upper deck, complete with fine china, silverware and luxurious saloons. It was heartbreaking to view the Coffin Ships that transported (and buried at sea) thousands of desperately poor…

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