National Stadium stop on the Skytrain in central Bangkok is packed at all hours of the day and night. With a population of 14 million in the city, there’s always movement and excitement. The trains – with announcements in Thai and English – are so air-conditioned my glasses frost up when I step inside. What a welcome relief from the weight of humid heat on the crazy-busy streets. Sidewalks on Soi 16 are just a suggestion and every couple of meters, we have to step into the street and straddle the v-shaped concrete ‘drain’ that runs beside the broken interlocking paving stones. Aside from a few random piles of dog poop and the occasional scurrying rat, the sidewalks are relatively clean. On Sukhumvit, the…

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